Hide Cords with Outlet Height (In-Wall Power Relocator)
A listed in-wall power-relocation kit can move a TV’s power connection to a higher outlet and hide the cord between them. Use the kit’s complete, approved parts and follow its instructions; never run an ordinary TV cord, extension cord, or power strip inside a wall. Check local permit rules and the wall cavity before cutting.
A mounted TV can look clean from the front and still leave a distracting cord hanging below it. A power-relocation kit can help by connecting an existing receptacle to a new, higher receptacle through an approved in-wall cable assembly.
The key is to choose the right system and install it as designed. The wall is not a safe hiding place for any cord that happens to fit. Below, I explain how to plan the route, compare options, and check the finished installation.
Planning: Choose the Right In-Wall Power Relocator
A power-relocation kit moves a TV power connection through a wall using parts listed and supplied for that purpose. Its lower inlet connects to an existing receptacle, and its upper outlet powers the TV. The kit’s listing, instructions, and local code guide the installation.
The goal is to hide the power connection between the lower and upper openings, not to bury a standard TV cord. Under the 2023 National Electrical Code (NEC) 110.3(B), listed equipment must be installed and used according to its listing and instructions. NEC 400.12 also bars using flexible cords as concealed building wiring, including running them through walls.
That means an extension cord, power strip, or ordinary appliance cord does not become suitable for in-wall use because it is covered by a wall plate or placed in a wall channel. Use a complete listed relocation assembly, or ask an electrician about installing a permanent receptacle.
Outlet height is usually a design choice, not a universal code measurement. Before you choose a height or cut an opening, check the product’s required spacing and box dimensions, local permit and inspection rules, and any requirements for the existing circuit.
Compare Your Cord-Hiding Options
The right option depends on whether you need to hide power, signal cables, or both. A kit’s parts and limits matter more than its appearance on the package. Compare the approaches before buying, and do not mix parts from different systems unless the instructions allow it.
| Option | Best use | What stays visible | Important limit |
|---|---|---|---|
| Listed in-wall power-relocation kit | Hiding the TV power cord between two wall openings | The kit’s input cord between its lower inlet and an existing receptacle | Use the complete kit as listed and instructed |
| Surface raceway | Covering cords on the wall without opening it | A slim wall-mounted channel | Do not use it to justify putting a flexible cord inside the wall |
| Permanent receptacle installed by an electrician | Adding a fixed outlet near the TV | Usually only the TV’s short power cord | Requires suitable wiring and work under local rules |
A kit often leaves a short input cord between its lower inlet and the existing receptacle. Plan for that connection before cutting. If the existing outlet is not behind a cabinet or other suitable location, some of the cord may remain visible.
A relocator also does not hide HDMI, Ethernet, speaker, or antenna cables by itself. Check the instructions for whether those low-voltage cables can share the opening or route, and keep them separate from power wiring as required by the product and applicable code.
Check the Wall Route Before Cutting
A wall cavity is the open space between framing members, but it may contain wiring, plumbing, blocking, or other barriers. Check both sides of the wall and the full path between the planned openings. If you cannot confirm the route, stop and get help before drilling or cutting.
Start by locating studs and noting the source outlet, proposed TV outlet, and kit dimensions. Check for switches, nearby fixtures, plumbing, and other signs of concealed services. A stud finder can help, but no tool removes the need to inspect carefully; do not drill blindly.
The kit determines the cable type, route, length, and opening size. Do not substitute cable, splice parts, or exceed a listed route. There is no single generic cable length or box size for every assembly.
Where permitted, NM cable is generally secured within 12 inches of boxes and at intervals no greater than 4.5 feet under NEC 334.30. Other cable types and kit designs may have different rules, so use the applicable requirements and instructions.
For holes through wood framing, NEC 300.4(A)(1) generally requires at least 1.25 inches between the hole and the nearest edge of the framing member. If that clearance cannot be maintained, an approved steel protection plate is generally required. Check for services before drilling, and do not notch or bore framing without checking the applicable limits.
Boxes also need enough room. NEC 314.16 sets box-fill requirements based on conductors, devices, grounding conductors, and clamps. Do not assume an existing box has spare capacity. NEC 300.14 generally requires at least 6 inches of free conductor measured from where the cable sheath ends; when the box opening is less than 8 inches in any dimension, conductors must extend at least 3 inches beyond it.
Install and Check the Assembly Safely
A listed kit is only a safe solution when its parts are installed as intended. Follow the specific manual for opening placement, cable routing, box support, and connections. If the work requires wiring skills you do not have, or local rules require it, use a qualified electrician.
A methodical installation begins before the first cut:
- Confirm the source receptacle is suitable for the kit and its instructions. Check local permit and inspection requirements.
- Turn off the correct circuit, then verify that power is absent with an appropriately rated tester. Do not rely on a breaker label alone.
- Survey both sides of the wall and the full route for studs, blocking, plumbing, existing wiring, and other hazards.
- Mark the openings using the kit’s template. Cut only after confirming the route and dimensions.
- Install the inlet, in-wall cable, and upper outlet exactly as the instructions specify. Do not substitute parts, make unapproved splices, or force a cable around an obstruction.
- Secure and protect the wiring as required. Keep it away from sharp edges and fasteners, and avoid pinching or damaging it as you fit the boxes and devices.
Before closing the openings or finishing the wall, inspect all accessible parts of the route. Check that the cable is undamaged and protected, boxes are supported, and device terminations follow the kit instructions. Restore power only when the assembly is complete, then test the upper receptacle with suitable equipment. Have an electrician perform or verify line-voltage work where required.
Installation Scenarios: Match the Solution to the Wall
These examples show how I assess common layouts; they are planning scenarios, not a substitute for checking a specific wall or kit. The deciding factors are the source outlet, clear wall route, assembly instructions, and local requirements.
Scenario 1: The existing outlet is behind the media cabinet. A listed relocation kit may suit this layout if the route to the TV is clear and the kit’s cable length and opening spacing fit. The short input cord can connect at the lower opening without crossing the visible wall.
Scenario 2: The existing outlet is far from the TV. Measure the route the kit permits, not just the straight-line distance between outlets. If the route exceeds the kit’s limits or crosses blocking, do not extend or splice the supplied cable. Ask an electrician about a permanent receptacle or use a surface solution.
Scenario 3: The wall contains a fire block or uncertain wiring. Do not cut through an obstruction or drill into a blind cavity. The route may need another approved path, or a professional may need to inspect it. A clean-looking opening is not worth damaging wiring or compromising the wall assembly.
Frequently Asked Questions
These answers cover common decisions about outlet height, kit selection, and safe installation. The kit’s own instructions and the electrical code adopted by your local authority control the specific installation. When a wall route or wiring condition is uncertain, pause and ask a qualified electrician.
Can I run my TV’s power cord inside the wall?
No. A standard TV cord or extension cord is not a substitute for listed in-wall wiring. Use a complete listed relocator or have a permanent receptacle installed as required by local code.
Does a raceway make an extension cord safe inside a wall?
No. A surface raceway does not make a flexible cord suitable for concealed in-wall wiring.
How high should the new outlet be?
There is no universal TV outlet height. Choose a practical position that suits the display and complies with the kit’s spacing and opening instructions.
Can I use parts from two different relocation kits?
Only if the relevant instructions explicitly permit it. Otherwise, use the complete assembly as listed.
Can power and HDMI cables share the same opening?
It depends on the kit and applicable rules. Follow its instructions for low-voltage cables and separation; do not assume every opening or route allows both.
Do I need a permit?
Permit and inspection rules vary by location and work type. Check with your local building or electrical authority before starting.
How do I know the wall cavity is clear?
Check both sides and the full route for framing, wiring, plumbing, and blocking. If you cannot confirm a clear path, do not cut or drill blindly.
Can I run the kit’s cable through a stud hole?
Only when the product’s instructions and applicable code allow that route. For holes through wood framing, check the 1.25-inch edge clearance rule and required protection.
What if the kit cable is too short?
Do not splice or extend it unless the manufacturer’s instructions specifically allow that. Choose an approved solution with a suitable route or consult an electrician.
Can I install the kit myself?
That depends on your skills and local rules. Follow the instructions, de-energize and verify the circuit, and hire a qualified electrician when required or when the route is uncertain.
A neat result starts with a safe route, not with hiding the cord at any cost. Choose a listed kit that fits the wall, follow its instructions, and keep ordinary power cords out of the wall. If you cannot verify the route or the work required, bring in an electrician.
(This article was written by one of our staff writers, Michael Holloway. Visit our Meet the Team page.)
