Hide TV Components (IR Repeater System)
An IR repeater lets you move TV components into a ventilated, reachable cabinet while still controlling them from the room. Put the receiver where your remote can reach it, then aim an emitter at each device’s IR sensor. Plan airflow, cable separation, and service access before building, and follow equipment instructions and local code.
A clean TV wall can hide more than cables: a receiver, game console, streaming box, or audio component may also need a home. The challenge is to hide the equipment without blocking its remote signal, trapping heat, or making repairs difficult. An infrared, or IR, repeater solves the signal problem, but it does not solve ventilation or electrical access on its own.
I plan these installations by starting with the components, not the cabinet. In one common layout, the TV stays on the wall while source devices sit in a nearby cabinet; a small receiver catches remote commands, and stick-on emitters relay them to the devices. The right design depends on the gear, the room, and the system instructions.
Plan the equipment, code review, and heat survey
Planning means listing every device, its power and control needs, its heat output, and its service requirements before choosing a cabinet. It also means checking local rules and manufacturer instructions early. This step helps prevent a polished enclosure from becoming too hot, too cramped, or difficult to service.
Start with a simple inventory:
- Record each component’s width, height, depth, weight, and connector location.
- Find its IR sensor, ventilation openings, specified clearances, and maximum ambient temperature in the manual.
- Note its power needs, heat load if published, and any wired network, HDMI, or antenna connections.
- Choose a place for the IR receiver that the remote can reach from normal seating.
- Identify the cable route and the access needed to remove each device.
NEC 110.3(B) requires listed or labeled equipment to be installed and used according to its instructions. The adopted code edition and local amendments matter, so check with the local authority or a qualified electrician where the work affects wiring, rated walls, or other regulated construction.
A cabinet can hold components and a power strip, but that does not make every electrical connection safe to conceal. NEC 314.29 requires covered junction, pull, and outlet boxes to remain accessible without removing building finish or structure. Do not bury a splice or a box behind permanent millwork.
Next step: Gather the manuals and dimensions before setting the enclosure size.
Design access, IR placement, and airflow
A sound enclosure gives each component room to breathe, lets you reach and remove it, and gives IR signals a clear path to the receiver. No single opening size or receiver setback works for every repeater. Use the component and repeater manuals to set the layout, then check that the finished cabinet works in place.
An IR repeater typically has a receiver, a distribution hub or connection point, and one or more emitters. The receiver accepts commands from the handheld remote. Each emitter sends those commands to a device’s IR sensor, often through a small adhesive-backed head placed over that sensor. Some systems use different parts or wiring, so confirm compatibility and placement in the repeater manual.
Keep the receiver visible to the remote, but not where it will be blocked by a cabinet door, décor, or direct sunlight if the manufacturer warns against it. Attach each emitter to the correct component and align it with the sensor. Test the setup with cabinet doors closed; a signal that works with the door open may not work once the cabinet is finished.
Size ventilation for real conditions
Heat control depends on both the equipment and the cabinet. Keep the exact top, side, and rear clearances and ambient-temperature limits in each device’s manual; use the most restrictive requirement. A perforated door or visible vent does not prove that enough air reaches the equipment.
As a steady-state estimate, airflow in cubic feet per minute can be calculated as:
CFM ≈ 3.16 × total heat load in watts ÷ allowable temperature rise in °F
For example, a 100-watt heat load and a 10°F allowable rise gives about 32 CFM. This is a sizing estimate, not a code minimum or a substitute for manufacturer requirements. If a device’s heat output is unknown, do not assume its electrical input equals its heat load; seek manufacturer data or have the design assessed.
Plan a cool-air intake and a separate warm-air exhaust so heated air does not loop back to the intake. A fan’s free-air rating alone does not show how much air it will move through a grille, filter, or narrow cabinet. Choose a fan arrangement that can deliver the needed airflow against that resistance, then verify temperatures during sustained use.
Next step: Draw the intake, exhaust, device clearances, and removal path before cutting or building.
Build the enclosure and route cables safely
A well-built enclosure is ventilated and removable or otherwise serviceable, with enough space for plugs and cable bends. Its finish should not block the planned airflow or IR path. Keep low-voltage control wiring and power wiring in compliant routes, and preserve any required fireblocking or fire-resistance details.
Size the opening for the largest component, its connectors, and the space needed to pull it out without scraping the finish. A cabinet that fits the device but traps its power plug can turn a simple replacement into a rebuild. Provide access to the repeater hub, fan, and any other part that may need adjustment.
Route IR and other Class 2 control wiring separately from branch-circuit conductors unless the adopted code and wiring-system listing allow a specific separation method. NEC 725.136 restricts Class 2 wiring from sharing enclosures or raceways with power conductors except under permitted conditions. Do not run ordinary extension cords or non-listed cable through a wall.
Protect cables from sharp edges and avoid pinching them behind doors or panels. Keep required electrical boxes accessible, and do not conceal splices behind fixed finish. Before closing a wall or cabinet, check whether the work affects a rated wall or fireblocking; restore required details and seek qualified help if the construction is unclear.
| Design choice | Works well when | Check before proceeding |
|---|---|---|
| Ventilated cabinet with IR emitters | Components are nearby and their sensors can be reached | Clearances, airflow, and emitter alignment |
| Cabinet with powered ventilation | Heat load or restricted openings call for active airflow | Installed airflow, noise, fan access, and temperature |
| Components in a closet or adjacent room | There is a clear control path and service access | Cable route, repeater range, and ventilation |
| Fixed decorative panel | It does not block required access | Whether any electrical box or connection would be buried |
Next step: Before finishing, confirm that cables are protected, boxes remain accessible, and components can be removed.
Verify IR control, temperature, and service access
Commissioning means testing the complete setup after the enclosure is built, not just checking that the receiver lights up. Test every component from the usual remote position with doors closed, then run the system under a representative load. Confirm temperature, airflow, and access while the installation is operating.
Use this sequence:
- Connect the receiver, hub, and emitters as the repeater manual directs.
- Place each emitter over its component’s IR sensor, then secure it as specified.
- Test every remote-controlled device from normal seating with cabinet doors closed.
- Run the equipment long enough to reach a stable operating condition under typical use.
- Measure cabinet temperature near the equipment and compare it with each device’s published ambient-temperature limit.
- Check that warm exhaust does not return to the intake and that fan operation is not blocked.
- Remove and reinstall a component to confirm the service opening is large enough.
If a device misses commands, check the emitter position, connection, and repeater compatibility before changing the cabinet. If temperatures exceed a published limit, stop relying on the enclosure as built. Improve the intake and exhaust path or revise the fan arrangement, then repeat the sustained-load check. Visible vents alone are not proof of adequate cooling.
In a typical illustrative setup, a TV remains on the wall while a receiver and streaming box sit in a cabinet below. The receiver is placed where the remote can reach it; separate emitters are aligned with the components’ sensors. The key test is whether each device responds with the door closed and stays within its stated temperature limit during use.
Next step: Keep the manuals, repeater layout, and any temperature readings with the equipment records for future service.
Common questions about IR repeaters and hidden components
These answers cover the choices that most often affect a hidden-component installation: receiver and emitter placement, cabinet airflow, code access, and troubleshooting. The right details vary by equipment and repeater model, so use the specific manuals and locally adopted code as the final reference.
Can I put a TV receiver or streaming box inside a cabinet?
Usually, if its manual permits the location and the cabinet provides the required clearances, ventilation, and service access. Use an IR repeater if the remote signal cannot reach the device’s sensor.
Where should I place the IR receiver?
Place it where the handheld remote has a clear path from the usual viewing area. Follow the repeater manual for placement limits and test with the cabinet doors in their normal position.
Where do the IR emitters go?
Place each emitter over the matching device’s IR sensor, following the system instructions. Sensor locations differ, so check the device manual or test carefully before securing the emitter.
Will an IR repeater work through a closed cabinet door?
The repeater receiver must be able to receive the remote command, and its emitter must reach the device sensor. Emitters attached inside the cabinet can relay commands even when the door blocks a direct signal, if the system is installed as instructed.
How much airflow does my cabinet need?
There is no universal code CFM for an AV cabinet. Follow each device’s ventilation instructions. A heat-load estimate can help size airflow, but verify the installed arrangement under sustained use.
Can I use a fan’s listed free-air CFM as the cabinet airflow?
Not by itself. Grilles, filters, and cabinet openings add resistance and can lower delivered airflow. Check the fan’s performance under the expected resistance and verify the cabinet temperature.
Can I run IR cable with household power wiring?
Do not assume they can share a raceway or enclosure. NEC 725.136 restricts Class 2 wiring from sharing with power conductors except under permitted conditions. Check the adopted code and wiring-system listing.
Can I hide an outlet or junction box behind a fixed cabinet panel?
Do not bury a covered box behind permanent finish. NEC 314.29 requires covered junction, pull, and outlet boxes to remain accessible without removing building finish or structure.
What should I check if the remote works only with the door open?
Confirm the receiver can see the remote, the repeater is compatible, and each emitter is aligned with its device sensor. Test again with the door closed and check the system manual for placement guidance.
What is the safest final check?
Test every component with the cabinet closed, run the system under representative use, and confirm temperatures remain within manufacturer limits. Also verify that equipment and required electrical boxes remain serviceable.
(This article was written by one of our staff writers, Michael Holloway. Visit our Meet the Team page.)
